A Personal (incomplete) Dining Guide to
Jerusalem
Important: Most places in Jerusalem close on
Fridays during late afternoon and do not open till Saturday
night. This applies to the following places, unless stated
otherwise.
Restaurants and Coffee Houses
Coffee and light meals
Lavan
One of the most pleasant cafe-restaurants in the city
is located in the Cinematheque Complex
(just across the street from Mishkenot Sha'ananim Guesthouse). The
outside patio has a view of the Old City walls. The Italian vegetarian
cuisine is very good. A great supplement to a good film. Open on
Weekends!
Caffit, Hillel, Aroma (The German Colony, Emek Refa'aim)
The three trendiest places in the German Colony, all located on Emek Refaim
street. At least 3 more places for coffee and light dining are within walking
distance. If you don't like one you can always choose another.
Pituim
Rachel Imenu 4. (just off Emek Refa'aim)
Phone: (02)-5662899
The name means "Temptations", and it refers not to the dairy menu but
rather to the amazing cakes and pasteries which are among the best to be had
in the city. An Excellent place for a coffee and dessert.
Hakol La-Ofe (everything for the baker)
Agripas Street (in the Mahne Yehuda market)
Known to be an experience. Its a baking
supply stored turned coffee shop, located in the middle of the Machne-Yehuda
market.
Authentic Jerusalem (Blue-Collar) Food
Pinati, Ta'ami
Ta'ami: Near the top of Shamai street
Pinati:
Every visitor to Jerusalem has to eat at one of these places at least once.
Jerusalem's citizens are divided on many issues, one of them being which of
these two hole-in-the-wall institutions serves better humus. Open only for
lunch, you are seated with others at one of the small tables and the protocol
is to leave as soon as you finish. The urban legend is that the original
owner (who died from being over stressed) used to shout at the customers
"chew, don't talk!", this is not the case today. Humus is the first course
(humus with meat can be a main), shakshuka (fried eggs with tomato sauce),
Musaka (eggplant with meat), a wonderful meatball in tomato sauce served with
rice and beens. Don't ask too many questions and be specific when you order
(if you ask for a meatball, you will get a bare plate with one meatball).
You won't get better humus anywhere in the world.
Zigmund
29 Gaza St.
Phone: (02) 563-9212
Named after the famed psychoanalyst Sigmund Frued, whose stern visage
overlooks the kitchen, this small mushroom-shaped food stand is
Jerusalem at its essence. Excellent Shakshooka (fried eggs in spicy
tomato sauce), basic sandwhiches and salads, French crepes for dessert
and fresh fruit juice. Homemade Couscous on Tuesdays. Always an
interesting experience.
Ethio
Elishar street 5, near the Hillel Cafe on Jaffa street, across from Zion
square, (City Center)
Phone: 02-6223992
Authentic inexpensive Ethiopian restaurant. Both meat and veggie
dishes are available. Most dishes are based on "Injera" bread, a
gluten-free flat bread of unusual taste which is a staple of Ethiopian
food, and are served with a variety of meat and veggie dips and toppings.
Try the "shiro".
Mifgash Chatsot
Agripas street (Near Mahne Yehuda market)
Humus places in the old city
Locals frequent Abu Shukri for truly delicious Arabic humus. It is located
down the Via Dolorosa Street. If Abu Shukri's is too busy and you are
starving, you might want to try Lina's up the Via Dolorosa street.
Again, open only for lunch, it isn't too clean but the humus is great.
Generally nice places to eat
Barood
Yaffo (Jaffa) 31 (in the Feingold Court, City
Center). Phone: (02) 625-9081
Traditional Sepharadic food, full
meals, light dining and a bar with a nice atmosphere. The fixed-price
"sampler" menu is said to be an adventure, though all items can be
ordered a la carte. Homemade olives, marinated green almonds, and the
sweet-onion house bread, pastilikos (meat and pine-nuts muffin), prasa
(leek patties with yogurt) and more. Standouts among the entrees are
meat balls with plums and wine, medias (tomatoes stuffed with meat),
and a beef, leek, and plum stew. Traditional desserts as
well. Barood's other face is its well-stocked bar, with more familiar
fare like spareribs and sausages. Friday afternoons sometimes have
live Balkan music. Open on Weekends! Reservations essential
Fri. afternoon and Sat.
Spaghettim
35 Hillel St. (City Center)
Phone: (02) 623-5547 or (02) 623-5548
A Spaghetti place with a family-friendly atmosphere. Choose from 68 sauces
with lots of vegetarian choices. The pasta portions are generous.
Friendly and efficient service adds a final welcoming touch. Also does deliveries.
Restobar
Ben-Maimon 1. (Just off Gaza St.)
Phone: (02) 566-5126
Part Bar part restaurant, this freindly neighbourhood place is
excellent for drinks, meals, or both. Very good shrimp dishes. Outside
seating is very pleasant in the afternoons. Open on Saturdays (but not
Friday night!).
Sakura
Y
affo (Jaffa) 31 (in the Feingold Court, City Center).
Phone: (02) 523-5464
A Sushi bar and Japanese restaurant. The food
served in this unpretentious restaurant is genuinely Japanese in its
flavors and style, and considered to be the best place for sushi in
Jerusalem. A bit on the expensive side with respect to other Sushi
places, but probably worth it. Reservations recommended. Open on Weekends!
Focaccia Bar
Rabbi Akiva St. 4, just off Hillel St. (City Center)
Phone: 02-625-6428
As the name implies, the specialty here is oven-baked focaccias with
an assortment of toppings. However really good salads, burgers, fish,
pastas, etc. are also to be had, in large portions. Calamari and the
avocado salad (served only in season) are recommended. Open weekends,
and very popular at this time so reservations are required.
Rehavia Sushi Bar
29 Gaza St.
Phone: (02) 566-7477
Kosher Sushi! Despite this, the sushi is quite good and also includes
thai Japanese and other far-eastern cuisine. Unpretentious neighbourhood
place.
Paradiso
Keren HaYesod 36. Phone: (02)
563-4805
An attractive, comfortable and uncluttered
cafe-restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere and a friendly crowd that
comes either for coffee and pastries, a sandwich or for full meals. A
surprisingly good wine list and very pleasant service. Nothing complex
or innovative here but a good choice for a casual meal at reasonable
prices. Open on Weekends! No reservation necessary, except on Friday
night.
Joy Grill and Beer
Emek Refaim 24.
Phone: (02) 563-0033
An upscale meat menu, a large selection of premium beers and one of
Jerusalem`s most lively neighborhoods combine to make this a excellent
place for a full rounded meal. Can get a bit crowded at nights.
Colony
7 Beit Lechem Road. Old Train station Complex
Phone: (02) 672-9955
Stylish Decor, a large bar but mainly the excellent meat and fish menu
make for a great place to eat. Interesting specials. Open on Weekends!
Reservations are reccomended. Another good restaurant is just next
door - Pini's Backyard.
Dolphin Yam
Ben Shetach 8, Nachalat Shiva quarter (City Center).
Phone:(02) 623-2272
Fish and Seafood, Reasonably priced. There may be nothing fancy here but
one receives a genuinely warm welcome in a comfortable setting where fixed
price fish and seafood meals await. Meals open with a mixed meze of nine
salads. There are several meat and pasta dishes on the menu, but one will
do well to keep in mind that the specialties here are fish and seafood.
Make reservations. If smoking is a problem then you should really stress this
when reserving.
Adom
Yaffo (Jaffa) 31 (in the Feingold Court, City Center)
A relatively new place that serves good French and Italian cuisine at moderate
prices. Slowly becoming one of my favorites. Open for lunch and dinner.
Reservations recommended.
Zuni
15 Yoel Moshe Salomon St. (City Center)
Phone: (02) 625-7776
A French-Itallian resto-bar that straddles the thin line between
bistro and brasserie. Reseonable prices for good food in an elegant
setting. The restayrant is open 24-7, a rarity in Jerusalem, with
breakfast starting at midnight and running until noon. If you`re a
late-riser, though, take advantage of brunch that runs until 4 pm on
Fridays and Shabbat.
Le Tsriff
5 Horkonos St. (City Center)
Phone: (02) 625-5488 or (02) 624-2478
This is a very Jerusalemite restaurant, located in an old house with a nice
stone patio. Its been a while since the last time I went there, but I
recall it was a pleasant experience. For some reason my tongue turned purple
for 24 hours after that meal, but its really nothing to worry about. Reserve.
Shonka
Rehov HaSoreg 1. (City Center)
Phone: (02) 625-7033
Distinctly New York in style and featuring interpretations of French, Italian
and Mediterranean cuisine without being overly pretentious. After 22:00 the
bar becomes noisy and dominant. Reserve.
Veggi
Al Dente
Arlozorov street
A dairy-only Italian restaurant.
Sergio's Brothers
Agripas street
Another dairy-only Italian restaurant.
Fancier (more expensive) dining
Cavalier
Ben Sira 1. (City Center)
Phone: (02) 624-2945
French cuisine with a Mediterranean twist.
Some define this as their favorite restaurant in Jerusalem.
Over the years the restaurant has maintained its lightly formal but easy
going atmosphere, the service remains at a high level and the wine list has
become quite good. Most of the dishes here are truly excellent.
Chocolate lovers must try the "Volcano" hot chocolate cake for dessert.
Not for vegetarians. Reservations essential.
Arcadia
10 Agrippas St. (City Ceneter)
Phone: (02) 624-9138
French cuisine. Regarded as the best restaurant in Jerusalem and one of the
best in Israel. Housed in an old stone-arched building (with a garden
courtyard for outdoor dining) in a narrow alley between Agripas Street and
Yaffo (Jaffa) Road. The menu is imaginative and the service excellent.
There are typically half a dozen fine beef, lamb, and fish combinations to
choose from. Save space for the exceptional desserts. Reservations essential.
Darna
3 Horkonos St. (City Center)
Phone: (02) 624-5406
This Kosher Moroccan restaurant (Arabic Moroccan food, not Jewish Moroccan
food) has one of the most beautiful interiors in Jerusalem. Guests can choose
to sit on couches or covered chairs. Vegetarian alternatives available. Keep
in mind that this is a place that you go to for the special atmosphere, not
for the food. Reserve.
Food Deliveries to the Campus
Spaghettim
A full menu in Hebrew can be found online
http://www.spagetim.co.il/.
Sakura - deliveries till 23:00,
(02)-623-5464
Chilly's Pizza - Best Pizza in Jerusalem, Hillel St. (02)
625-4040, Open (almost) 24/7.
Iwo Burgers - Excellent Hamburgers - two places on Hillel
st. and Emek Refaim. (02)-622-2513
Joy Express - Burgers, sandwiches, wraps, salads, meals etc. 1-800-200-477
Food Hubs
There are several areas in Jerusalem which have a high concentration of restaurants
German Colony - Emek Refaim
This single street serves as the 'Main Street' of the German Colony
and is full of restaurants, coffee-shops, fast-food, shops and stores
plus an excellent art-house movies theatre (with its own cafe, where
else can you see a movie with a cup of coffee or beer?). One of the
liveliest streets in the city, especially on Friday mornings and
Saturday night. About 10 minutes walk from the Mishkenot Guesthouse.
Machne Yehuda Market
Theres no better way to get to know a city and its inhabitants than
visiting its markets and this is especially true in Jerusalem. In
recent years, the market has undergone something of a transformation
with boutiques, chic shops and restaurants opening alongside the
produce and fish stalls. From a culinary aspect, there are many
low-brow options (falafel, shwarma), ethinc cuisine (Iraqi, curdish,
Indian, etc.), as well as more upscale options.
Rehavia - Gaza St.
Along the length of the Rehavia Neighbourhood "main street" - Gaza
St. (so named since it lies on the old road to Gaza), one can find
several excellent bars and restaurants that fit all tastes and
pocket-sizes, whether its sushi or shakshooka, humus or shrimps, beer
or coffee, you can find it all here.
City Center
As in any city, the city center in Jerusalem is lively and
active. Even on Friday nights, one can find many open restaurants and
bars, though Saturday night is the busiest. Ben-Yehuda and Zion square
have a more "touristic" bent, Nachlat Shiva'a has many small pearls
hidden in the alleyways and Feinglod court houses several excellent
resaurants in a very small space.
Ein-Karem
This small outlying neighbourhood, built on the mountainside is very
picturesque with its old houses narrow streets and monestaries,
surrounded by forests (or at aleast what israelis think of as
forests). Its location outside the city means that most places are
open on weekends, and this makes it a favorite for families at that
time.
Activities
The Jerusalem Cinematheque
11 Hebron Road.
Phone: (02) 672-4131
Perched on the slopes of Mount Zion and facing the walls of the old city,
Jerusalem's two-screen art house cinema is an institution. Its regular program
includes foreign and specialty films along with general releases, typically
screening four different films daily. A film schedule in English is available
online at http://www.jer-cin.org.il/.
The Israel Museum
Near Givat Ram.
Phone: (02)
http://www.imj.org.il/.